Norway Inside, part 2

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Glaciers are continually changing as temperatures change with seasons and decades, and with gravity the weight of the ice itself forces a flow.  Glacier ice crystals are a different shape from other ice because of the pressures exerted upon them – they begin with the usual hexagonal plates, and then they clump together more and more to form larger crystals, and over time and deeper down they align themselves so the grain of the crystals align with the direction of the glacial flow.  Ice is solid, ice changes shape, ice flows.

 

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(The image on left is of new glacier ice, colors representing different directions of crystal structure.  The image on the right shows older glacier ice, where the ice crystals have begun to align their direction with the flow of ice.)

 

 

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Glaciers are a beautiful expression of the liquidity of a solid, and many rocks show the apparent solidity of a (former) liquid.  Both are examples of the way the earth is in continual change.  Glaciers grind down rocks and move rocks, and the rocks shape and guide the flow of glaciers.  We are also made of molecular structures and processes.  Our own form is continually changing.

 

To walk on a glacier is to be in a magical in-between place, a slow motion river – crunchy, slushy on top (on a sunny day) and solid ice below. We could hear the glacier melting deep inside, underfoot.  We couldn’t precisely feel it flowing, but we saw changes in the toe of the glacier from our morning outset and our evening departure – a hunk of ice broke off, leaving a dark cave in the ice.

 

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 In ‘Glacier Ice’, by Austin Post and Edward R. Lachapelle, there are photographs and words to describe the details and features of glaciers – 79 words are defined in the book:  eg., ‘firn’ (snow in the state of transition to glacier ice), ‘nieve penitentes’ (a field of snow or firn pillars produced by an advanced stage of ‘sun cup’ development),  ‘tarn’ (a small lake occupying a hollow eroded by glacial erosion) – the language itself is a wonderland – often from nordic languages – from people who live with the active ice world.

The body offers up some tangential correlations:  the cerebrospinal fluid cisterns in the brain are called ventricals.  Chasms of ice, filled with meltwater, reminded me of the ventricals in the brain; the constant trickle of water within the ice was like the quiet and continuous flow of the cerebrospinal fluid. 

 

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Digging my fingers into the melting surface of the glacier revealed a network of tiny holes, leaving a structural lattice of ice.  This reminded me of trabecular bone, the lattice-work of bone at the ends of the long limbs bones.  Bone is a tissue whose crystalline structure continually re-forms itself, with ongoing breakdown and building up.  Bones, like glaciers, can change shape in response to the forces exerted upon them. The ‘trabecular ice’ (my term) was a result of the way glacial ice is formed, via pressure, to create a more dense, compact set of crystals.  This ends up trapping myriad tiny air bubbles.  During ice melt, those bubbles emerge and make crackling, popping sounds – (that Cheryl recorded with her underwater mic.)  These air pockets also grow and connect as the ice melts, leaving an ice lattice – so a person can dig her fingers into the ice, until the fingers go numb.  Probing a glacier felt intimate, like grasping hold of the beast.

 

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(Trabecular bone)

 

Glaciers are batteries. Receding glaciers in the Andes are devastating for local communities – because they provide a steady water supply. This continual stream feeds all the downstream ecosystems.  But glaciers also store energy – they are cold storage – and this becomes important for global climate balance.  We think of heat as energy and cold as lack of energy, but for simplicity’s sake, the storage of cold holds potential.  Once this is released, then a chain of action happens, and that potential is dissipated, gone.

 

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(This is a model of the Jostedalsbreen glacier – largest glacier in continental Europe.  We hiked up one little finger of this, called Nigardsbreen. The model makes clear the dramatic terrain of Norway and the dominant presence of the glacier and its relationship to the fjords, and the countryside between.)  

Returning to the body – our window on the world – snow and ice in the environment teach the body to generate energy.  Our bodies respond to cold environments with vigor.  People who live in snow and ice are able to withstand temperature extremes and to thrive in harsh conditions. We need sun, but we also need vitality-inducing deep cold.

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Cheryl and I both have an attraction to snow and ice, and particularly to glaciers.  We intend to create a performance piece that is inspired by our direct experience and the raw sounds and images gathered from glaciers.  It’s a pilgrimage.  We can’t stop the incessant retreat of glaciers.  But we can bear witness to the larger-than-life presence of these rivers of ice.  The experience changes us, and perhaps in that there is something that will change our actions, and maybe we can influence and inspire others – only by beauty.  We are touched by beauty and make art as a translation, running that direct experience through us to create something else – a note scratched into a piece of bark,  a shout across a lake.  I wouldn’t want to not say anything.

 

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Norway Inside

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Norway inside

By Rebecca Haseltine
(c) 09/30/18

Please check out my ‘News’ section for more photographs of the magic world around Sognefjord and Hardangarfjord in Norway. Cheryl Leonard and I were awarded a residency at KH Messen in Ålvik for June this year.  We spent as much time as possible hiking in the area around the residency. We picked Ålvik because it was a small town on a fjord, near many hiking trails into mountains behind, and it was near the two largest glaciers in Norway.  We both have a keen interest in glaciers – as endangered species and as a cross between water and rock, between geology and hydrology, a record of planet and local history, and keeper of deep resources.

 
 

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We hiked up the Nigardsbreen glacier with a guide and Cheryl was able to drop her waterproof microphones into holes and crevasses to record the deep sounds there.  I was too overwhelmed to draw but photographed as much as I could.  I now have a more visceral sense of the movement of glaciers, as evidenced by the cracks and crumbles the ice makes.  And we could hear the sounds of melting ice – in crackles and pops and in the burbling of under-surface streams.  

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I was given a large studio to work in, and immediately filled the floors, wall, and space with experiments.  I spent a lot of time crumpling paper, trying to exert different forces on a sheet of paper that might force it to crumble the way a glacier does when it is undergoing different pressures and strains.  The resulting paper sculptures began to fill my studio, and they came alive in the changing light of the days. I started making my own ice blobs in the freezer and then shined different kinds of light through the ice to photograph and video. 

 
 

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Ice crumpling as glacier rounds a bend, Nigardsbreen. 
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I was intimidated by the relentless, raw beauty surrounding us, and making art felt trivial and pointless. But I felt an obligation to at least try, so I experimented a lot with different materials. I continue to unravel the inspiration and will try to share something of the visceral experience of being in the place. This is life as it lives inside. Norway lives inside.

The ice eventually melted and all the paper sculptures got flattened and rolled up for some future artist to use for something else.  In the basement of Messen is a room full of artist leftovers that any current resident may use for their projects. We all made many trips to the basement to search for interesting and useful things and to deposit what we no longer needed.

The entire landscape, (I hesitate to use that word because places in nature are not just for us to gaze upon. Places in nature are for themselves, and I want a word that honors that. ‘Environment’ is so generic.) the land, is shaped by glaciers.  There is also a dramatic geological history of upheaval and shifting that precedes the glacial action, including massive heating and cooling phases. The rocks and the glaciers seemed to be in a direct conversation with each other, and they exerted forces on each other, creating sometimes similar patterns and forms. We were confronted by different time scales as well as the massive volume scale of the geography.

 
 

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With my familiar ink and mylar tools I attempted to reflect on the deep chasms in the glacial ice, the jumbled hunks of ice of the toe and edges, and the unusual blues, the ever deepening blues emerging from the depths in the ice.  Our guide explained that this particular blue is the only wavelength able to pass through the density of the compressed glacial ice.

 
 

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Cheryl and I are working toward a performance in which I will do something as yet unformed! I hope to work with video projection, working with field-recorded footage woven with live video.  Stay tuned!

 
 

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